Today we're embarking on a journey of creativity and craftsmanship right from the comfort of your own space. Delving into the art of ceramics offers a unique blend of therapeutic joy and artistic expression, allowing you to mold clay into beautiful forms limited only by your imagination. This comprehensive guide is tailored to equip you with the essential knowledge and techniques needed to kickstart your ceramic adventure. With focus on home studio set up, from selecting the right materials to mastering fundamental vocabulary, we will explore the world of ceramics together and unlock the boundless potential of clay in your hands.
Table Of Contents
Health and Safety Precautions
Engaging in ceramics at home brings forth a multitude of artistic rewards, but it's crucial to also prioritize health and safety throughout the creative process. Working with clay and glazes involves exposure to various materials that may pose health risks if mishandled. Dust particles from dry clay can irritate the respiratory system and cause silicosis, making it essential to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a protective mask. Silicosis is a disease that develops over time, it affects your respiratory system and hinders your breathing. Additionally, certain glazes contain chemicals that can be harmful if ingested or inhaled, emphasizing the importance of using them according to safety guidelines and avoiding food contact surfaces unless labeled food-safe. Proper storage and handling of materials, regular cleaning of workspaces, and practicing good hygiene habits are all integral aspects of ensuring a safe and enjoyable ceramic experience at home. Please note that I am not an expert and proper research outside of this article on health, safety, and clean up is essential. Engage in at home ceramics at your own risk.
Proper clean up
In ceramic studios, cleaning with wet sponges and mops is not just a preference but a necessity rooted in safety and practicality. Dry cleaning methods such as sweeping or dusting stir up fine clay particles (silica dust) into the air, increasing the risk of inhalation and long term respiratory issues for artists and anyone else in the vicinity. Wet cleaning techniques effectively trap dust and clay particles, preventing them from becoming airborne and minimizing the potential for health hazards. Moreover, wet cleaning helps maintain a cleaner environment, reducing the risk of contamination in the workspace and preserving the integrity of finished ceramic pieces. By prioritizing wet cleaning practices, ceramic studios ensure a safer, healthier, and more conducive environment for creativity to flourish. When cleaning plaster bats and drywall boards (we will discuss what this is later on) be sure to use a lightly damp sponge to wipe the surface, don't soak these surfaces in water!
Proper disposal of clay water, often referred to as slip or slurry, is paramount in maintaining a clean and functional ceramic studio environment. Clay water contains suspended clay particles and other contaminants, which if left untreated, can lead to various issues. Firstly, disposing of clay water responsibly prevents it from seeping into the plumbing system, where it could potentially cause clogs and other plumbing problems. Additionally, clay water left sitting for too long can become a breeding ground for bacteria and mold, posing health risks to studio occupants. Furthermore, environmentally conscious disposal practices ensure that clay contaminants do not leach into the soil or waterways, preserving the ecosystem's integrity. By implementing proper disposal methods such as filtration, settling, and recycling, ceramic studios can uphold hygiene standards, promote sustainability, and safeguard the health of both occupants and the environment. Settling is an easy way to clean up at home as you wont have much clay water to dispose of if you are just doing small projects. What you can do is let your clay water sit untouched until you can see the separation of water on-top and clay on the bottom. You can then soak up the top layer of water with a large sponge and dispose of this down the drain, leaving the settled clay to use as reclaim or slip.
Workspace
Its important to choose a well-ventilated area with easy access to water and electricity when doing ceramics at home. If possible, designate a space away from living areas to minimize the spread of clay dust and glaze particles. Ensure the flooring is easy to clean, as working with clay can get messy. Work off of a sturdy worktable at a comfortable height for both sitting and standing work. Equip your workspace with essential tools such as a pottery wheel (if desired, not needed for hand building), a kiln if you plan to fire your ceramics at home (we will go over firing your ceramics elsewhere as this is a beginner guid and you probably don't have a kiln!), and ample storage for clay, glazes, and finished pieces. Consider installing adequate lighting to illuminate your work area effectively. Additionally, it's crucial to have proper ventilation to mitigate exposure to dust and fumes, whether through a window, exhaust fan, or air purifier. Finally, maintain a clutter-free environment to enhance safety and workflow efficiency. By creating a dedicated and well-equipped ceramics workspace at home, you can fully immerse yourself in the creative process with ease and peace of mind.
Glazing
We will go over glazes more in depth when we talk about kiln firings but if you plan to glaze at home there are many things to be mindful of. Firstly, familiarize yourself with the properties of different glazes, including their firing temperature, application methods, and colour variations. Use appropriate safety equipment such as gloves and a mask to protect yourself from inhaling glaze particles and chemicals, this is depending on what glazes you are using. For at home glazing I recommend food safe underglazes and a food safe brush on overglaze (we will dissect this more later on), with these options you'll be fun without the need of a mask or gloves (always refer to the packaging and safety regulations of the glazes you are using before deciding wether or not to wear PPE).
Firing Your Ceramics
Before getting into the building process its important to establish a means for you to fire your pieces, wether this is at home or an outside studio. If you already have a kiln then you are set! I assume most of you do not so outsourcing this task is really your only option. Look up all ceramics studios close to your home, call each one and ask if they rent out shelf space in their kilns. Each studio will be different depending on the size of their kilns and other factors but generally you should be able to rent half a shelf for around $20 CAD more or less and a full shelf for around $40 -50 CAD. Again, the prices will vary depending on what studio you go to so call around and find a studio that works best for you. It is also extremely important to know which type of clay and glaze you are using and what the firing temperatures are. There are different firing ranges based on the clay and glaze you are using:
Low-fire glaze - Cones 015-018
Mid-range glaze - Cones 04-6
High-fire glaze - Cones 7-10
Luster firing - Cones 013-014
Bisque firing - Cones 08-04
For now we will only focus on mid firing as this is very common and will be easy for you to find a studio firing at these cones. Bisque firing will always be a lower cone than the glaze firing, bisque firings for mid fire clay usually stand around 08-04, you can view the 0 infront of the number sort of like a '-'sign indicating that it is a lower temperature. Note that the bisque firing comes first, and then the glaze firing second. It is a good idea to keep your packaging to show the studio what materials you are using so they can confirm with you that you are using the correct cones, some studios may require this as well. We will speak more of the different stages of greenware later on but it is extremely important to keep in mind that when you are transporting your pieces for a bisque firing, you are transporting bone dry clay which is the most fragile state your clay pieces will be in throughout the entire process. Make sure to keep this in mind when choosing a studio, one closer in distance is a safer bet as it will cut your travel time down, slightly lowering your risk for breakage.
Vocabulary List
Hang tight, we are almost to the fun part!! Before we dive in I highly suggest taking note of this vocabulary list as these words are extremely common and necessary to learn for your own knowledge and growth within the ceramic world.
Clay: A natural, earthy material that is malleable when wet and hard when fired.
Kiln: A high-temperature oven used for firing ceramics.
Firings: Heating clay to a sufficient temperature to fuse particles together and "mature" the clay.
Bisque: Unglazed ceramic ware that has been fired once.
Glaze: A glassy coating applied to bisque ceramics, which becomes vitrified when fired.
Underglaze: A coating applied to either greenware or bisque ware, providing colour after firing but not a vitrified coating.
Slip: Liquid clay used for casting, decoration, and joining.
Wedging: The process of kneading clay to remove air bubbles and ensure a uniform consistency.
Throwing: The process of shaping clay on a potter's wheel.
Greenware: Unfired clay.
Leather-hard: Clay that is partially dried and firm but still workable (leather hard ranges from soft, medium, to hard leather hard).
Bone Dry: Completely dried clay, ready to be bisque fired.
Vitrification: The process of glaze becoming glass-like and impermeable in the kiln.
Engobe: A coloured slip used for decorating ceramics.
Slip Casting: A method of shaping ceramics by pouring slip into a mold.
Cone: A measure of heat in a kiln, indicating the temperature at which a specific cone will bend.
Shrinkage: The reduction in size of clay pieces as they dry and are fired.
Throwing Bat: A removable disc used on the potter's wheel for easy removal of thrown pots.
Plaster/wooden Bats: A plaster/wooden surface used for reclaim, wedging, and speed up drying times.
Reclaim: Recycling clay scraps by soaking in water, drying, and wedging/pugging.
Pug Mill: A machine used to mix and de-air clay.
Grog: Crushed fired clay added to clay bodies to reduce shrinkage and increase strength.
Material List
This is where the fun is beginning to start! I will attach another list below of materials I highly consider purchasing with links attached. The beauty of ceramics is you can use anything as a tool... literally anything at all. Try out fun materials like bubble wrap or mesh for fun textures or cookie cutters for shapes. Take a jaunt around your local dollar store and pick up some items that could be fun to explore with. With this in mind, it is still great to have some essential potters tools, these will always come in extremely handy during your shaping, joining, decorating, and cleaning processes.
Here is a perfect affordable beginner friendly kit! I will attach links for the other products below that are not included in this kit incase you want to purchase them as well. The kit linked above provides a large range of different tools and comes with a case as well which is great. If you would prefer something more simple, this set will also work, it comes with less tools but you still get the basics. I do recommend investing in the larger kit if this is something you plan on doing often!
Wire Cutter: A tool made of wire and handles, used for cutting lumps of clay.
Rib: A flat tool used for smoothing and shaping clay, available in different materials like wood, rubber, or metal. (I use all 3 rib materials very often, the metal and rubber probably being my favourite though). Rubber rib tool link
Fettling Knife: A knife used for trimming, carving, and detailing clay (a very thin pairing knife from dollarama or even an exacto-knife will work). Fettling knife link
Loop Tool: A tool with a looped wire end, used for carving and hollowing out clay (great for hollowing out sculptures).
Sponge: Used for smoothing clay surfaces and adding or removing water. (small one for clay use and large one for studio clean up)
Needle Tool: A sharp, pointed tool used for scoring, cutting, and adding fine details. (A must! you will use this LOTS!)
Calipers: A measuring tool used to ensure consistent dimensions in pottery. Calipers link
Brushes: Used for applying slip, glaze, and for painting designs on pottery. Brush set link
Banding Wheel: A rotating platform used for decorating and sculpting. Banding Wheel link
Rolling Pin: Used for flattening clay slabs (can be purchased from the dollar store/second hand). Rolling guide stick link (the guide sticks help you to roll an evenly thick slab-super helpful!).
Hard spatula: Used for mixing, spreading, and lifting clay or glaze (purchase second hand or at dollar store)
Slab Mat: A surface for rolling out clay slabs, often made of canvas or similar material to prevent sticking. A large cut out piece of drywall is also great for working on! Slab Mat link
Bucket: Large bucket for reclaiming clay/clay water disposal (8L is a good size) (can be purchased at any Canadian Tire, Home Hardware, Home Depot, etc.).
Hand Building
Now that you have the fundamental knowledge to be able to build your at home studio safely, mindfully, and confidently, you are ready to dive right in to your projects! In efforts not to turn this blog post into a book (if you read all the way till here bless you, and if you skipped to here-GO BACK AND READ! Proper at home studio etiquette is extremely important!), I will be releasing another blog post tomorrow where we will dive into different building and glazing techniques to equip you with all the knowledge needed to bring your imagination to life! Subscribe for email notifications to be the first to know! (I promise I wont spam you with emails, only the occasional artful love letter). Now go ahead and collect your materials so we can begin building tomorrow!
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